Fastening

Lines: Choosing the Right Diameter, Material, and Length

Line thickness depends on boat size and intended use. Polyester is stiffer than polypropylene under the same load, stretches very little, and is therefore well-suited for spring lines or stern lines. Nylon, on the other hand, absorbs shocks and is often the first choice for bow lines in berths with swell. Important: It's better to buy one size thicker than to skimp – especially for boats left for long periods or in exposed berths.

Cleats, Bollards, and Eyes: Sizing is Key

A cleat is only as good as its fastening. Make sure that the mounting holes fit the substructure of your deck and that you can secure it with sufficiently large washers or a backing plate. A4 stainless steel is the right choice for permanently wet areas; chrome-plated brass parts look good initially but can quickly tarnish in salty air.

Proper Fender Positioning

Round fenders fit most hulls, while flat fenders offer better protection for wide, flat sides. The fender line should be adjusted so that the fender maintains its position during tide and swell – a length reserve of 20 to 30 percent is advisable in tide-affected berths. Clean fenders after the season and store them dry to prevent the material from becoming brittle.

Common Mooring Pitfalls

Too short spring lines are the most common reason why boats rub against their berth. A spring line should be secured approximately amidships and long enough so that it doesn't stand taut during tidal changes or swell. Also: Regularly check shackles and carabiners on mooring lines for corrosion – a broken connecting element usually becomes apparent precisely when it matters most.